When we last left our motorcycling duo they were visiting the city of Damascus,
the capital city of Syria.
After my post at the internet cafe, we headed to Elissar, a recommended
restaurant in an old Arabic style house, where stone and marble bands of color
decorated the inner walls of the obligatory courtyard. It was amazingly restored
and beautiful, especially with the vines climbing the walls and soft light
casting a glow over the dining guests. We were shown to a side room (a downside
of not making a previous reservation!) and offered menus and a wine list. We
chose another Lebanese wine, as we had done several times previously, and set
about ordering mezze (like Spanish tapas) and entrees. The food, consisting of
more fresh tomatoes and cukes, as well as many local Syrian dishes, was
incredible...and much too plentiful! The waiter smiled as we gave up in defeat
and announced that desert, a local hot cheese and honey desert, was available.
How could we resist?! LOL Little did we know that it would be accompanied by
their "standard" trays (yes, I do mean trays!) of fresh apricots, watermelon and
cherries. We ate until we just could not absorb any more. This was by far the
most I had eaten on this trip...so good. The back to the hotel and hoping for a
good night's rest before a long day ahead.
We rose early in hopes of catching the first morning light and to watch the city
"come alive." We made our way through the small streets of the old city and into
the souq and Khans. The souq is the marketplace for the city and is always
centered around the main mosque. This dates back to ancient times. The khans are
the merchants inns and include the standard domed entrance and two stories. At
the time we arrived both were fairly quiet, with storefronts just being rolled
up and goods being rolled out for display and purchase.
At the first fruit stand we came to I stopped to buy some apricots, something
Damascus is famous for. When I asked how much I owed, I was once again given the
Syrian sign for "gift;" hand over the heart, then hand motioned towards me, and
an Arabic phrase I have yet to learn. Another amazing gesture of kindness and
generosity.
On we went, winding through the small passageways and old homes, many so old and
high that they touched overhead. The construction of the old abodes, mud bricks
covered by straw then more mud, were in various stages of repair and blended
right into the more modern houses intertwined with them. Each house was very
simple on its exterior, with a common metal or wooden door adorned by a hand
shaped knocker. We were lucky enough to get a glimpse inside a doorway left open
- it revealed an inner courtyard, open to the sky, surrounded by the living
quarters. Truly magical!
We encountered many locals along our way, each inquiring as to our homeland and
offering us words of welcome. Many invited us into their shops, not to buy, but
to have tea. We could learn something from this!
After two hours of wandering and shooting, we entered one of the many smaller
souqs. The stores, in contrast to those in the states, are grouped by offering,
i.e., all the candy shops were together, all the spice shops were side by side,
etc. The smell in the spice "wing" was intoxicating and we were given a few
lessons about what each bag contained. Oh what I wouldn't give to have this
available at home!
After making a few purchases, we headed to the main mosque (sorry I don't recall
the proper name). This mosque, visited by Muslims from all over the world, is
third to Mecca in terms of its sanctity. It was massive and beautiful, adorned
by brightly colored mosaics depicting rich scenes, all intertwined with gold
that shimmered in the sun.
The courtyard, immense and full of kids playing, contained an ablution fountain,
which Muslims use to wash themselves before entering the mosque. Watching their
ritual was endearing and gave me some sense of their devotion to their beliefs,
those that are quite opposed to what we see portrayed by the media and the
extremists.
As we entered the mosque proper, were greeted by throngs of black-drape covered
women and white cotton robe wearing men, praying with beads and bowing toward
Mecca. For many of them this was a very emotional experience of a lifetime and
tears and weeping were everywhere. It was a very special place and taking photos
seemed so inappropriate (in spite of devout Muslim families doing so in front of
every object) that I took only a couple shots.
We soon ran out of time and after returning the required hooded robe I had
borrowed to wear into the mosque, and putting our shoes back on, we headed for
the hotel to check out.
While the guys headed for the bikes, I handled getting our luggage out of the
hotel and checking us out. One thing to remember: pick up your passport, which
the front desks must keep during your stay, before you leave. If the bellman
hadn't reminded me, we would have driven off without them! He and I spent some
time chatting at the hotel's front entrance and I learned as much about him and
his family as he did about mine. It was a great exchange of information and we
parted shaking hands and smiling.
We were off to Palmyra, one of the best preserved ancient cities built by the
Romans, and Syria's most popular sites. We headed out through the very hot
desert, along a very nondescript highway occupied by large trucks, tour busses
headed back from Palmyra, and cookie-cuttered, white Chevy Suburbans, all
donning unusual red license plates and carrying groups of men indicative of what
we think of when we think of "desert men." We would soon find out the origin of
the red plates: Iraq...only 100 KMs to the Southeast of our path. A little
unnerving, I must say.
We arrived in Palmyra late in the afternoon, just in time to watch the setting
of the light across the ruins, which were openly accessible to the road enabling
us to drive by, video camera rolling.
We headed for our newest hotel to relax for a while. Our guide, exhausted from
our constant travel, chose to rest (which become 14 hours of sleep!) and DH and
I headed down to the restaurant for dinner. We were treated to a lovely window
view of the sunlit ruins and another fine meal and bottle of wine, a much needed
break for us both. We ate and chatted while watching the sun do its dance across
the many towering columns and arches. It happens so quickly here that one only
has a brief window in which to capture an image, something the Indian
photographer we met that night had failed to achieve after three evening
attempts!
The next morning, we headed out, cameras in hand, to catch the early morning
light and the relatively tourist-free moments. It was a bit windy and made
riding the bike over for a shot in front of the Main Arch a bit challenging.
But, we did it and got a great shot of us and the bike. Where else could you
ever get this close to something so historical?
We wandered around for a few hours, exploring the site and shooting, mostly
close-ups of well-worn frescoes, and both Arabic and Aramaic script detailing
the name of the person whose statue had once graced the column on which the
inscription was carved.
It was a perfect morning.
Our next stop: Visiting a local Bedouin family, nomadic desert dwellers who had
lived in both Petra and around Syria and Jordan's deserts for thousands of
years, in a nearby tented area. Details to follow...
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Hello All!
I so appreciate all the positive feedback from you all. I have really enjoyed
the experience of writing in more detail as we travel this time and am very
happy to hear you are enjoying traveling with me!
I'll start where I last left off...
I had read that it was possible for people to arrange to meet the Bedouins,
nomadic desert dwellers who had lived in both Petra and around Syria and
Jordan's deserts for thousands of years. So, when we arrived in Aleppo, my DH
asked the hotel desk clerk if he could arrange such a visit for us. We were in
luck - he was off the next day and offered to accompany us to translate. Yeah!
We headed out at 11 a.m., bound for an encampment 20 KMs away. We arrived
shortly before lunch time to find several tents, made of items like wool, goat's
hair and old food sacks, carefully stitched together to create both living and
working spaces. The tents, spaced out from each other, were blowing gently in
the breeze. Animals, including sheep, goats, a couple donkeys and three dogs,
dotted the area.
As we made our way to one family's tent, we could see one of the women working
on making something in front of the tent. It appeared to be milk of some sort
and we soon learned it was from their goats and was being separated, with one
portion going to make butter and the other for making yoghurt in the nearby
plastic barrels. It was a fantastic look into everyday life for the women who do
all the domestic work: preparing food and cooking, cleaning, tending to the many
kids, etc. Sound familiar? LOL
We were invited into the tent of a family consisting of a man and wife and their
five children - five boys and one daughter. Everyone else soon joined us. The
family was headed by the grandfather. There was also a grandmother, but she did
not participate in our visit and it appeared that she and the grandfather had
"separated" at some point. I wasn't sure it was appropriate to ask, so I didn't.
Each son was married and had at least 3 children. When we asked the grandfather
how many grandchildren he had he replied he was not sure, having lost count some
time ago, but he thought at least 14! His face lit up as he related this.
My DH and I sat with the group of men, while the women sat in a circle just
behind the men, with many of the kids. It was a bit awkward for me to sit in
this "male" group as it is customary that the men and women sit and interact
separately, but I was made to feel very welcome, being offered a set of very
nice woven cushions to park myself upon. I glanced over at the women and smiled
- they returned the gesture, seeming very comfortable with the arrangement.
We had brought along our portable Canon printer so we could give them pictures
of their families and of our visit. While DH set it up and started shooting
pictures, I started the conversation, using our Arabic speaking guide as
interpreter.
We had so many questions and they were so happy to share answers to whatever we
asked, sometimes to my surprise! They were also very interested in us and our
lives and riddled us with just as many inquiries.
Here are just a few of the exchanges:
Me: How long have you lived here, and how long do you stay in one place before
moving on?
Grandfather: We have been here for only one month. We will stay 10 months to one
year, unless the resources are poor, in which case we will move on.
Me: How long does it take to set up a tent this size (approx. 35'x20' in size)?
Grandfather: Usually less than an hour (this includes digging holes into hard
desert ground for the stakes and center poles). And, if the men area really
strong, perhaps only half an hour.
Me: Wow, it takes us longer than that to set up our American camping tent, and
it's much smaller and easier to set up.
Grandfather and Others: Laughter!
Me: Do you celebrate anniversaries or birthdays?
Grandfather/Son 2: No, we do not know when they are (they do not use a
calendar...refreshing way to live, huh?!).
Me: How many children do families usually have?
Son 1: That depends. There are many children. (Laughter and smiles from all the
adults.) (I also learned that it depends on how much happens at night as the
women work all day - night time is for them to procreate!) (Much laughter from
the women after telling me this!)
Me: What do you eat for each meal?
Son 2: For breakfast we eat homemade bread, butter, yoghurt, tomatoes and
cucumbers.
Grandfather: Are you hungry, would you like some breakfast?
Me: No thank you, but my husband might. (I have a very restricted diet and
sensitive stomach and have to be very careful about what I eat - bummer!)
DH: Sure, I'd love to try some things!
Me: Are your marriages arranged or do you select your spouses?
Grandfather: Usually we choose our mates, but if a person has not found someone
by the age of 30, we select someone for them. Did you select your husband, or
was he picked for you?
Me: I was married before and it was not happy. I was single for 10 years and
then found this wonderful man (gesturing about my feelings for my DH by touching
his shoulders and smiling affectionately).
(The women thought this was great and they all nodded their approval, seeming
quite happy that I had made my own choice!)
The wife of the son whose tent we were in soon brought out a large cloth which
she opened and laid out on the open ground in the center of everyone. It
contained large flatbread made earlier by her. She spread them out in all
directions and left. She returned quickly with a silver tray filled with
delicious looking foods: Large, red tomatoes; small, firm cucumbers; freshly
churned butter; freshly made yoghurt; and a dish that we never did identify, but
that looked similar to Mexican Ortega chilies. DH dug in and enjoyed every bite!
Again, I was bummed to miss out!
I was then invited by one of the women to visit her tent. She appeared to be
very interested in my seeing it. As I rounded the corner of the opening,
attempting to communicate with her any way I could, she proudly pointed to some
beautiful needlework hanging on the walls. This was her handiwork and she
shared, through gestures, how she completed the work. I nodded and smiled,
trying desperately to show her how beautiful I thought it was. I asked (again,
by hand gestures) if I could take a picture of her in front of it and she gladly
obliged.
Her husband then asked me to take another photo of him - he assumed his best
"I'm so suave and debonair," pose, holding his head stiffly as the smoke from
his cigarette circled his body. He was quite a macho guy - poor wife!
We then headed back toward the main tent as I shot pictures of several of their
animals, per their requests. They were very proud of their home and livestock
and I did what I could to let them know how special it was that they had allowed
us to visit.
When I returned to the tent, there was a sleeping baby lying next to the pillows
I had previously used. He looked so peaceful and when I reached down to touch
his soft little hands, his mother (wife of son #2) quickly, and proudly,
acknowledged that he was her son. This woman, sporting a large gold crown on one
of her front teeth, with hair covered and a radiant smile, had the most
wonderful spirit. She was quite beautiful, not in our standard sense of defining
the word, but in her ability to light up the room with her smile and her great
sense of humor. I was so glad to have made contact with her and shared pictures
of my kids with her - she smiled, put her fingers to her lips and indicated to
me that she thought they were beautiful. We shared a few more smiles and she
"joked" about her next oldest son trying to steal the bottle from the now
wakened and eating baby. It seemed there was only one bottle and they had to
share it. I felt so conflicted: sad that they had so little, and happy to see
that their way worked so well for them - they were so happy.
The kids were simply amazing, holding such spiritual beauty in their eyes. Some
were quite shy, but most gladly shook hands and exchanged smiles with us. All
were thrilled to see their pictures coming to life and they proudly showed them
off to their "cousins" and the parents.
We sipped tea (shai), shared stories and information requested and printed the
photos that were being taken throughout our visit.
After more than two hours, we had to leave to check out of our hotel. The
families seemed very sorry to see us depart and invited us to spend the night
with them so we could visit more. We politely declined, knowing we had a very
long ride to Aleppo, across the hot desert, ahead of us. Their generosity was
amazing.
We said our goodbyes, with my taking the hand of each of the women and girls and
thanking them in Arabic - Shukran! They seemed elated at the effort.
Off we went...
As we headed through the very hot desert, passing through small villages made up
of mud brick houses, we encountered so many warm welcomes and waves. The road,
which had been very well maintained up to now, became an obstacle course of pot
holes and washouts from flooding that occurs during the rare instances of hard
rain. My amazing DH managed to run the gauntlet with us, bike and gear in
tact...remarkable!
Several hours of hot, desert sun later, we arrived in Allepo, tired and ready to
check into a traditional Arab style house that had been turned into a hotel -
think "A Thousand And One Nights!"
Lights out...